Sea Change

Note: Written yesterday


While writing this blog post it is becoming a late Tuesday evening and currently I am taking in the flavors of a short glass of red wine at a neighborhood bar while decompressing from a fairly uneventful night at work. The establishment is slowly trimming its occupancy and the echoes of underlying musical instrumentals humming from ceiling speakers are starting to overcome the fleeting murmurs of its remaining patrons.

It's been what feels like a lifetime since updating this blog and for that I am truly sorry, especially to those who have taken time out of their day to read it. It's hard to say if the effects of drinking this liquid inspiration as it sits effortlessly alongside my typing hands is the true influence for this current post or if there is something more important on my mind that is worth writing about. Despite the fact not a great deal of time has passed since the days of consistent blog updates I can sense brooming sweeps of frustration invading my mind as I struggle to decide whether this entry should just be deleted due to insoficient reader content. In the past there had always been an underlying reason for adding another chapter to this growing index of random life accounts but at this exact moment there sits a vacant mental block of absolutely nothing. A creeping urge to pay my tab and exit the bar lingers in the cold outside but my hands keep wanting to continue their seemingly hopeless romantic crusade of simply writing SOMETHING. 

Despite the internal wall of writer's block breathing over my literary shoulder the thumbs of my hands keep dancing on my phone's keyboard as if a familiar tune had just starting playing from the nearby stereo. Pausing for air to scan the horizon above my screen, I take a quick sip of my beverage sensing that the energy of the room is slowly escaping and the faint noises of keyboard clicks and wine glasses reconnecting upon bartop are the only two distinguishable elements computing within my consciousness. 

After a series of transitions from glass in hand to glass upon bartop I realize that I haven't been drinking any of my wine; the only thing I've been doing is staring at its miniature crimson tides as they swirl along the walls of their oval shaped confinement. My right hand keeps lifting and rotating the faintly transparent liquid in front of me then silently plummetting its container back to its location of origin, completely disrupting its circular motion. For being so peaceful and docile relative to everything else capable of grabbing my attention in the room the miniature swells rippling from side to side bring boisterous echoes of unpredictable change and my gaze is now fully trapped within its spheracle trap. Perhaps the instincts of my hands are aware of something that my mind can't sense, at least not yet. 

My body shivers as a slight breeze is beginning to whisper through the establishment and I suddenly realize that the place is fully vacant except for me and the practically unconsumed drink staring back at me. Its a cue to leave so I pay the bartender and make for the dimly illuminated exit sign. The faint hint of wine being freed into an unseen sink could be heard as I close the door behind me and blend into the blustery darkness. 

Where Dogs Stand On Rooftops

There is a place that I used to know, a far away land where for a sparkle of an instant used to be considered an address of residence or quite possibly a home. A destination where exotic scents and lush colors could be discovered on even the most regular of corners. The pace of living was slow but wonder effortlesly raced as if it were on a schedule. A place where curiosity became new friends with oddities such as cars chasing cars or even dogs standing on rooftops.

This place shall remain anonymous because merely typing its letters brings moisture to my eyelids and sensations of  vibrating bells to the walls of my heart. Since our unavoidable parting a few months ago its name has been hovering in my mind like a drifting wave of fog unaffected by the movements of oncoming breeze. Simply whispering the correct sequence of letters for this location will serve as a password for opening a well-encripted box of nostalgia.

This backwards yet strangely comfortable realm of hot mornings and refreshing afternoons welcomed me into its boundaries for the first time last November and undeniably I was a lost treasure seeker looking to fill my pockets with the invaluable bounties of memories, friendships, but maybe most importantly a hopeful sense of personal direction. 

Crisp and fluid ripples slicing through the massive ocean known as life haven't missed a rythmic beat as weeks have graduated into months since returning home from this far away land. Life has molded into a unpredictable sandcastle with friendships, asperations, and familiarity evolving or dissolving at the mercy of incoming water. However as the waves forming and crashing on all sides of me continue to break with sentiments of change, ghostly gusts of familiar breeze continue to whisper as I find myself staring out into the unknown horizon of the límitness body of water. 

The life ocean in front of me keeps molding and reforming and after months on this side of the shore I still find myself walking back onto the dock that cast me off into my previous journey. Looking from front to back it is apparent that so many things are changing but then so much feels exactly the same. I don't know why after this much time the siron like breeze keeps calling me back to the edge of the shore, maybe its to search for more answers but possibly its to find an entirely new list of questions. Looking down at the tide below there is one thing that has stayed the same since when this dock used to have a raft, Im lost. The hollow ringing in my ears doesnt sound like wind anymore, its becoming familiar, faintly like a car chasing a car.

Am I still looking for treasure? No. The truth is that I'm looking for the place where I entrusted my love, the place where dogs stand on rooftops. Its time to build another boat...

Que Sera Sera

Today is Saturday and there has been an extremely large gap of time between the previous blog post and the one that I am currently finishing. To those who have read any part of this blog I am extremely sorry for the lack of updates but sincerely hope that things have been going well for you during the past handful of weeks :) Inspiration comes in many different forms and the reason for this particular post comes from an event that took place last Wednesday.

Currently I am working two jobs, one as a bar-back at a relaxing British pub-style wine bar called Wellington's located in my hometown of Sausalito, and also as a part-time alternative taxi driver for a San Francisco based company called Lyft. Last Wednesday a paycheck was received from both employers and after paying off a large number of previous expenses, bills, and necessary obligations, I long awaited "first" finally took place. After balancing, budgeting, and some math crunching I realized that I had saved the first dollar that would be directed towards funding my next large trip.

 At this exact moment there is exactly one dollar in my savings account, hardly enough to buy a daily newspaper or even an apple, but in my heart this was the hardest dollar I've ever earned. After returning home from South America, having spent nearly everything except for a handful of Peruvian Soles, and being extremely fortunate to find work it was virtually unknown as to when any form saving would begin to take fruition. It could have been a month ago or it could have been three months from now, but it happened on Wednesday July 17, 2013.

 This might sound ridiculous to write about one dollar but every big thing in life must start as something little. Babies must crawl before they learn to walk, and this exact computer in which I am writing started originally as series of ideas inside someone's mind. A quote once stated that the journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step. It's very hard to say the direction where this "first" will be guided but whatever will be will undoubtably be. The only fact that reigns true in my heart and what is driving every ounce of motivation is that this "first" has one definite route: "Forward"

Where the Sky is Bigger

It has been a handful of weeks since writing in this blog and for those who have taken time in the past to read my previous entries I apologize for lag between updates. Inspiration to write can at times feel as illusive as an intense game of hide and seek but today a big event is sparking a previously watered kindling for motivation. At this very moment I am standing in line with a group of other travelers at the Oakland International Airport waiting to receive a boarding pass to a place that for seven years used to be called home: Missoula, Montana.

Ten months ago a house was emptied, a place of employment was given its notice, a series of "goodbyes" was shared among friends, and a life that was developed for seven years within the majestic horizon of one the world's most beautiful landscapes was placed on hold for an undetermined length of separation. For the first time since moving up to Missoula in the summer of 2005 this particular departure did not guarantee the timetable for a return voyage and an epilogue of answers was overshadowed with dense proceeding chapters of uncertain questions. 

Standing behind a growing queue of future destination seekers only the sensation of excitement runs laps around my consciousness. Artsy First Fridays, Dead Hipster stage dancing, hungover corned beef & hash, never ending river trails, pizza done Biga, Saturday markets, the world's best beer, and the some of greatest friends anyone can ask for are what sit only a short plane ride away. Its difficult to say what will be different and what will still be the same since last setting foot there but to have lived in such a wonderful place is a true blessing that I feel fortunate to have experienced. The Last Best Place hasn't been my home since last August but it will forever reserve a dorm bed on the 2nd Floor of Aber Hall for my heart. See you guys soon :)

I Reminisce Over You

Note: Written yesterday

Today is Wednesday and at this very moment I am enjoying a day off from work by running a handful of errands and taking in some much needed California sun. The sky is spotless, the breeze that whispers behind me has subtle undertones of necessary warmth, and a jumble of sounds ranging from soft conversation to passing traffic surround my senses as I finish a burrito prepared by a local establishment named "Lucinda's". This particular restaurant has become engrained as a staple eatery from my youth and today is the first reunion that we have made since embarking on my trip down south over eight months ago.

The dining experience that has just unwrapped itself is exactly how it was since leaving and more importantly is feels like a pulsing case of deja-vu from the first introduction I made with this restaurant many years ago. The aroma is savory and eat bite feels like a newly opened chapter from my internal book of memories. One soft epologue of Mexican style goodness brings a flash of just finishing an intense lacrosse practice, a second page break brings an image of getting ready to see a Giants game in San Francisco, a third editor's note invades my vision with a notion of going to an out-of-touch friend's house, and the list goes onward until the meal runs short on words. As time continues to pass and a rotating wheel of orders being taken by the clerk behind me goes from the process of verbal questions to physical product in hand the pages of recollections continue to race directly in front of me until at last there sits an empty remnant of tin foil wrapping, a satisfied stomach, and a shutter of incompleteness. Goosebumps send a chill through my body because each chapter in my mind springs attention with a proper build up of plot, character development, and ocassional conflict resolution but very shortly the final sentence gets cut off before I can see what happens next.

At this point the restaurant is filled with customers and it is time for me to yield my seat so someone else can open up their newly acquired and steaming book of memories. To fill the sudden void that has engulfed my consciousness I decide to stand on my now sleepy feet and aimlessly search my pockets as if something more interesting besides a wallet and keys is sitting within their confines. The sun blinds my eyes as I hop back in my car and realize that everything inside "Lucinda's" was exactly the same as the last time I ate there, everything except me. Will the next meal here have as good of a story line? My phone soon begins vibrating to attention as I pull away from the parking lot and the image of "Lucinda's" yellow engraved street sign fades away into the oblivion of my rear-view mirror. It's time to add more chapters.

A New Focus

Today is Tuesday and currently I am spending some free time with my Dad buying groceries and enjoying some very pleasant sun near Sausalito, California. It has been nearly a month since writing in this blog, a page that was originally intended to be a form of documentation for a recent trip of exploration down in various locations throughout a vibrant oracle of complexity known as South America.

Here is a very short summary of the life events that have unfolded since the last posting and since settling home from the seven month tour: After two days of being home with family I was extremely fortunate to be hired as a server in a Sausalito based wine bar named Wellington's and am currently located in this establishment four nights a week. Also some great friends from high school and myself just returned from an epic road trip down in dusty Indio, California to take part in a weekend of schinanigans alternatively known as Coachella 2013 and for the first time in my career as a CouchSurfer I hosted a really cool girl from the UK named Kelly for a handful of days. Overall life is good and a return visit to Missoula, Montana (a very special place) is currently in the works.

One month ago in my heart I felt that this blog had reached a climactic bridge and that it was time to hop back on shore towards life and leave the writing paddles nestled secretly under a watery sage brush. Since returning home, reconnecting with some very special people, and re-acclimating towards life in the working world I have come to the realization that writing in this blog was something that truly made me happy so to leave it stashed away in a spidery attic is something that would give me a sense of limitless shadowy guilt.

These points being said I have decided to continue updating this blog, perhaps not with the same degree of consistency as before, and write in it various experiences that seem like fun stories to share with the world. Since I am no longer traveling the future posts that will soon inhabit this site might not seem nearly as interesting as before (if they ever were) and there is by no means an obligation to read them. For everyone who has ever glanced at this blog in the past I sincerely thank you for your time and hope that the upcoming content will be something you enjoy! Have a great day and you look delightful :)

Dan

From 188 to Zero..

Writers Note: I meant to publish this yesterday but the Internet connection wasn't great sorry!!


Today is Tuesday and currently I am waiting to eat breakfast in a relaxed Bogota cafe named "El Gato Gris" which is located along the upper boundaries of the bohemian neighborhood of La Candelaria. The restaurant is completely empty except for myself, the rustling of activity of various chefs in the eateries' kitchen, a soft hum of Latin rock music that is emanating from a hidden stereo system, and an ocean of thoughts that are racing through my mind like a violent race of chariots.

At this very moment a pulsing sensation of vertigo is screaming like a faded trombone through my body because I can sense a cavernous cliff that is about to be jumped towards a destination that for the previous 188 days has felt like a land of unrealistic imagination. In three hours I will pack my belongings, hail a taxi to the Bogota International Airport, and board a flight towards quite possibly the most exotically foreign location that I have witnessed since seven months ago: Home.

For the majority of the trip it was easy to keep emotions about leaving South America stored away in the dusty attic of my conscious but with the scheduled time of departure creeping steadily closer its hard not to think about all of the impending changes that are about to commence. Alterations in scenery, perspectives, and culture will become a very relevant face once my first plane lands in Florida later in the afternoon to officially mark a touch down on North American soil. Seven months ago there was fear of the "unknown" and the idea of sinking into an ocean of uncertainty mixed with danger. At this very moment there there is fear mixed with heavy curiosity about returning to what once was "the known" and to see how seven months of hiatus effects relationships with friends and family. Despite this particular riddle that life will unfold I'm sure things will be alright.

The weekend leading up to today's exodus consisted primarily of reunions with a handful of very close friends whom I had met during various beginning stages of the trip. Dancing, restaurants, wandering, reconnecting with wonderful people and the exchanging of stories made the climactic days in Bogota a fantastically satisfying means of finishing the trip down South. Being here reminded me how lucky I have been to meet everyone who has entered my life since the original arrival in Bogota on August 21st and how friendship is one of life's treasures that should never be taken for granted.

As each ticking instant in Bogota fades away into the whirlpool of time the moment to bid a final farewell is walking down the driveway of life and about to press it's finger on the doorbell. As I descend towards home this blog will follow a similar trajectory but unlike me it will be eagerly waiting at the airport for the next grand adventure. I can't say when the next blog entry will be but it's bags are already packed and ready to see another corner of this wonderfully mysterious world.

For everyone who has ever glanced over this blog I want to sincerely thank you for taking time out of your day to read it. You might have read every entry since the page's donning, a single paragraph, or possibly just this exact sentence. However much or little you have read it doesn't matter because having the opportunity to write to you has been an honor and knowing that I have been graced with such wonderful people to share this experience with has been more important to me than the journey itself. I've been extremely fortunate to have experienced South America but even more blessed to have great people like you who have shown support just by clicking on the page. Thank you for being who you are and I sincerely hope that this blog was something you enjoyed reading because it was something that I truly loved writing.

If anyone wants any information concerning various locations in South America or how to plan for such a trip I would love to help in any way possible so please feel free to contact me. This journey started out for me as a dream and merely a spark of an idea that kept igniting its way back into my life even after large quantities of doubt made it seem impossible to accomplish. I was very fortunate in achieving this personal quest and hopefully this blog will give you motivation to strive towards your personal odyssey or to provide some form of light towards something you are yearning for. One thing I've learned from this trip is that life is too short to not do what makes you happy and to not follow that fire that is burning bright inside your heart. Take good care of yourself and let's follow our next dreams together :)

Love,

Daniel Bond Catena

Ending Where It Started

Today is Saturday and currently I am slowly taking in the flavors of a warm coffee beverage in the Quito International Airport. The weather outside is charmingly sunny with scattered dots of white clouds freckling around the Ecuadorian horizon. In exactly one hour I will pick up my personal sized backpack, an item that has been my companion for many months now, stroll towards a brightly illuminated departure gate, and board a plane destined for Bogota, Colombia.

I'm sipping my drink as slowly as possible because it is the last item I will purchase during my duration in Ecuador. Once this miniature paper cup filled with refreshingly smooth espresso and water is entirely consumed I will have completed the very final cycle of experiences that have taken place in this wonderful country. Glaring into the soul of this drink I notice that the beverage's tint shares the appearance of how it feels to leave Quito and all of the fantastic people who I have been fortunate enough to encounter here: Dark. However at the same time the taste that remains in my mouth after every gradual sip reminds me of how it felt to have lived, gotten lost, and been rediscovered here: Simply fantastic. I want this drink to stay in my hand forever but like all things there has to be an end where there once was a beginning.

Between sharing beers, shopping for pants, watching movies, dancing, and a lot of laughing the short yet sweet second duration of stay here in Quito was a very satisfying close to a special chapter in my trip. Limitless memories and scattered remnants of a wide variety of experiences will forever be engrained within the concrete foundations of this Ecuadorian city but more importantly they will remain something that keeps me smiling for the rest of my life. Some of the most interesting, hilarious, and sincere people whom I have ever met were encountered during my time here and to have an opportunity to see some of them again was truly a blessing. It's hard to bid farewell to such great people but inside I know that we will meet again somewhere else in the world and that our friendships will continue in one form or another.

Once in Bogota I will try to meet a handful of other close friends who were met during the infant stages of this seven month journey and to be with them again will be amazing yet deeply surreal. The concept of returning is like a heavy case of Deja-Vu because the Colombian capital city was the very first destination visited in what feels like generations ago however at the same time revisiting the original set now faded footprints of this lengthy tale of wanderings will feel like proper closure to a relationship that is nearing its timely climax. In seventy-two hours a final kiss to South America will send me packing on one last flight to the United States and soon afterwards the echoes of "goodbye" will be replaced with "hello" because there will be highly anticipated and needed reunions between loved ones back home.

As I type the final words of this blog post I realize that the cup once filled with coffee is now completely empty and that it's original contents are now a facet of my recollections. Having finished this warm serving of brew I take one final glance at the relic that remains in the palm of my hand to question whether buying it was a good decision. Was the flavor what I had hoped for? Should I have ordered a Cappuccino instead? Should I have added some milk and sugar? Placing it with love inside a nearby waste disposal bin I realize I'm kidding myself. It was the best damn cup of coffee I've ever tasted.

Quelcome Back Quito

Today is Wednesday and currently I am back in Quito, Ecuador enjoying a warm coffee near Plaza Fauch which is nestled within the tourist friendly neighborhoods of Miraflores. I spent three weeks in Quito nearly six months ago when enrolled in a Spanish Language School named Simon Bolivar and during this second stint of time I am staying in the same hostel as before, Vibes Backpackers, to see some close friends who are still working/living there.

This particular city is known for providing its citizens with an unpredictably diverse menu of daily changes in climate and at the moment there is an inviting taste of familiarity. Early phases of the morning were greeted with light rain showers followed by refreshing bursts of piercing sunlight, and currently a horde of dark grey clouds are beginning to consume the Ecuadorian capital's skyline like an invading act of nature.

I arrived in Quito yesterday afternoon to conclude a series of lengthy bus rides that originated in Chiclayo, Peru. After spending a little over a week visiting a very close friend in the northern Peruvian coastal city I hopped a bus to Tumbes on Monday afternoon then proceeded to cross the border into Ecuador at about three in the morning. The journey into Ecuador was extremely smooth despite the fact that it was extremely early and everyone was half-asleep. The gateway towards Quito was accomplished with a second bus from the massive port city of Guayaquil. Within minutes of exiting one bus I hastily boarded a second and finally 24 hours after departing Chiclayo my final destination was reached. This length of time might seem pretty harsh but in South America any bus trip that sits at less than 10 hours between locations feels like a warm Sunday morning brunch.

Quito is my second to last stop during this journey in South America and in three days I will return to the city where the foundations of the adventure took place:Bogota, Colombia. Returning to these locations feels very surreal because the person I was when I first arrived is definitely not who I am today. For one I now have a lot more experience in dealing with the various nuances of South American travel and additionally I have learned a great about myself plus about aspects of life in general. Living once again in Vibes feels like an episode of the Twilight Zone because the hostel is filled with entirely different faces and nearly every traveller in the facility is at the start of their Latin American adventure whereas I am on the cusp of returning home. Listening to people ask questions about various locations and express sensations of uncertainty towards future planning makes me feel like a weathered veteran waiting to finish a tour of duty while living in the barracks of freshly enlisted recruits.

It's exciting to see these people because it brings back memories of how life was only a short while ago and also because entirely new worlds are about to be opened for them and they don't even know it yet. It's also refreshing because I know in my heart it's time to come home, to see loved ones, to matriculate into the lifestyle that now feels like speedy flashes of once forgotten memories. Cheers to you newly arrived wanderers and treasure seekers, I've had my fun in this wonderfully enriching continent and now it's rightly time to pass you the torch :) Good night and good luck!

An Open Letter

Dear Peru,

You probably don't remember me but for the previous handful of months we have shared a very intimate relationship in a game of wanderer meets host country. I'm writing you this letter to say farewell and thank you for all of the memories that we have created together because within three days a bus will be boarded and our friendship will soon bare the harsh realities of long distances.

I came into your life on a pitch-black and brisk November evening after a strenuous border crossing through the desert tundras of southern Ecuador. A crowded collectivo van shuttled me from Tumbes to Mancora and within minutes of setting foot on your soil the vehicle sped off into the invisible abyss while still carrying my sleeping bag and a pair of hiking shoes still attached to its roof. These weren't the only items that your country has taken from me: Sandals got taken from boardwalk salsa bar in Mancora, a favorite shirt got ripped to shreds during an accident in Puno, a night of dancing led to a stolen hoodie then a sweater on two separate occasions in Cusco, and additionally a bank card got clumsily forgotten in a Lima ATM. Books ranging from Lonely Planets to children's literature in Spanish were left behind as tributes within your hostels, your busses, and your park benches with hopes that another wandering traveler would find a new use for them. Everything that was lost, stolen, or forgotten during the course o our friendship is all worth the experiences that we have shared together. They are my homage to your wonderful lands and your beautiful culture and for every item that has changed ownership there now sits in its place a memory that I will proudly remember for the rest of my life.

You have made me happy, sad, terrified, furious, curious, excited, shameful, shameless, and thankful over the past series of months, sometimes all in the span of minutes. Together we have seen sunsets along coastal paradises, stumbled home at sunrise after a night of dancing, fallen asleep when others were waking up. tasted the best and worst food of our lives, been crammed in a Cumbia blaring bus like fish ready for sale, wandered endless street corners in search of Internet cafes, trusted strangers with more than should be admitted, purchased delicious food from vibrantly colored markets, tasted dishes with confusing names, got introduced to future life-long friends, had a deep conversation that lasted only sixty seconds, had conversations about nothing that lasted for hours, played games of chicken with speeding taxis, pretended to understand lengthy conversations with fast-talking locals, been offered candy, offered drugs, offered rides, cut in lines, gotten completely lost, laughed with newly made friends, yelled at newly made opponents, cried in happiness, cried in sadness, but most of all we LIVED.

Thank you Peru for sharing your culture, people, and world with me it was a whirlwind ride and a complete honor getting to know you. I wouldn't trade a single instant of our relationship for anything and hopefully we are both better people from our time spent together. This farewell is not permanent, I will return maybe as a traveler but hopefully as a resident because no matter where we both are in the future you will always have a special place in my heart. Take really good care of yourself and please remember to brush your teeth after dinner :)

Love,

Danny Catena

P.S. Please import Goldfish crackers for the next time I visit your killing me...

Coastal Getaways with Colca Cola and Lima Slices

Today is Monday and at the moment I have just arrived in Chiclayo to see a very good friend and stay with her family for a few days. There has yet again been a heavy gap of time between now and the prior blog post and for that please accept my sincerest apologies. I have been really fortunate in finding free accommodation over the past few weeks but this doesn't guarantee that Internet will be easily accessible.

The family of my friend was kind enough to welcome me into their home for a second stint of time (I first visited Chiclayo in mid January) as I make my way North which is great because they provide fantastic company and even better home-cooked meals :) More farewells and hellos await me which has become increasingly bittersweet especially since the final resting place for the trip in creeping closer with each passing day. After receiving my second dosage of Chiclayo for a few days I will bid a sad farewell to Peru and trek further north into Ecuador to enjoy the final few legs of this journey which is within short distance of reaching a duration of seven months.

The weather today is nice and overcast which is a comfortable transition from the uncomfortably hot temperatures that accompanied my stay in Trujillo. Before Chiclayo I spent 5 days between Trujillo and Huanchaco to see another great friend whom I met through Couchsurfing last January. The majority of the time there was spent watching cheesy bridal movies dubbed in Spanish but overall it was nice to be back but even harder to say goodbye because Trujillo has become one of my favorite cities in this journey. Reality of life after vacationing used to feel like a gush of gentle breeze but now winds are roaring and preparations for storms of responsibility are taking inventory.

I found myself back in Trujillo last Wednesday morning after boarding a night bus that originated in the capital city of Lima. This is a very condensed city that fills pedestrians ears with the sounds of speeding comvi busses while still offering the leisures of breathtaking ocean sunsets. With a population hovering at about nine million inhabitants Lima is surprisingly a very pleasant place to stay and can provide travelers with a wide range of activities. I spent two weekends ago in the bustling metropolis primarily to visit a handful of very close friends that I had met during prior moments of the trip. On Friday some very cool people named Melody and Lizeth joined me at a bar called "Botika" located in the beautiful Miraflores district in order to meet a large group of other Couchsurfers for drinks and fun conversations. The following Saturday consisted of reconnecting with a great buddy named John whom I met four months ago in Quito and two other former co-workers from Cusco, Nayla and Stefan, for some dancing at a club called "El Dragon". It was a fun coincidence to see so many familiar faces and combining this with Lima a meeting place made for a weekend that I feel very lucky to have experienced. Parting ways for maybe but hopefully not the last time with these extraordinary people was very difficult but in my heart I know that we are all meant to be friends forever. If anyone is looking for a chilled out backpackers hostel that has a cosy atmosphere then "Ekekos" is a recommendation and Juan Miguel who works there is hilarious.

Before Lima I was fortunate to have taken a two day tour of Colca Canyon which is a massive mountainous valley that is peppered with a series of tiny villages winding a few hours away from Arequipa. This time of year is quite rainy within the Peruvian mountainous regions and this provided a vividly green series of landscapes for our group who embarked on the tour. The trip was unfortunately filled with scarce amounts walking but nevertheless very worthwhile because it was enjoyed with some interesting people from various parts of the world such as Poland and Brazil. Colca offers travelers an endless assortment of stunning sights at a very reasonable price compared to Machu Pichu or other natural wonders of Peru. The final days in Arequipa once the tour of Colca had been completed consisted of hanging out with Barbara, the Couchsurfing friend who hosted me, and her family plus going out to a bar called Deja Vu with people who were visiting the city during the same stretch of time. Arequipa is a beautiful place to see in Peru and sorely will be missed.

Writing this blog post I realize that the number of remaining entries for this story are becoming severely limited because the trail towards home is shorter with each passing day. March 27 is the official day when I touch back down into San Francisco and its shocking how quickly moments in time have passed by. On March 26th a plane will send me from Bogota, Colombia to Fort Lauderdale, Florida then over to Los Angeles and finally to the City by the Bay. From the moment of final landing I frankly have no idea what life will bring or what kind of new experiences and tests are waiting but this is why life is do damn beautiful. Thank you for reading this blog it's been my pleasure writing you.

Arequipa via Desert Sunsets

It has been about a week since the last blog update and after spending a handful of nights in the Chilean capital of Santiago I have found myself back in southern Peru. Currently I am enjoying some time in the countries' second most populated city named Arequipa and tomorrow morning will depart on a two day tour of Colca Canyon (twice as deep as the Grand Canyon) located about four hours away. From there the upcoming stop will be Lima and another stint along the upper Peruvian coast before heading further north towards my final trip destination of Bogota, Colombia in a matter of weeks.

After two and a half weeks throughout various locations in Chile it feels refreshing to be back in Peru mainly because the prices for everything are substantially cheaper. The vast majority of products ranging from groceries to bus fairs average nearly the half price in Peru compared to Chile thus after only a brief period of time it became financially evident to keep this particular chapter of the journey brief. The experience in Chile was short lived yet fantastic because the people are very kind and the plethora of landscapes provide travelers with constant satisfaction.

From Santiago the plan was to visit San Pedro de Atacama, a dusty Chilean desert village that hovers along the Bolivian/Argentinian borders which also is well-known for being one of the driest locations on Earth. San Pedro is a popular (and pricy) destination for travelers because it has a wide selection in unreal desert landscapes such as rock walls at Valle De La Luna, a national Flamenco preserve, and photogenic salt flats that span entire horizons. Two really good friends and I made plans to meet at this isolated traveler oasis but before doing so I had a four day gap of free-time without any official plans.

During my final day in Santiago and after discovering that Argentina was now charging Americans $160 to cross over into boundaries I made an impulsive decision to visit La Serena, a sunburned vacation destination for many Chileans that sits halfway to San Pedro. A severe lack of planning made the arrival into the laid-back coastal city little stressful because the entire list of hostels for La Serena was booked solid. After asking around and scouring various websites in a cafe near the bus terminal a last minute find at a hostel named El Arbol was booked thus providing a breath of relief. By complete coincidence a really good friend named Julio who I met in Viña Del Mar was staying in Coquimba, a neighboring town, during the same stretch of time and we met back up at a beer festival in La Serena to sample a wide variety of Chilean micro brews. The festival combined with large quantities sun soaking along the beach and another language exchange to practice Spanish made La Serena a surprisingly nice three day stopover.

After relaxing along the umbrella and ocean swell infused shore during my final afternoon in La Serena a nightbus sent me to Antofagasta then a second connecting trip helped me arrive to arid San Pedro de Atacama. Two days were dedicated towards exploring Valle De La Luna, Valle De La Muerte, and various lagoons throughout the vibrantly tinted deserts of northern Chile. When not on a tour a great deal of time was spent with some really nice friends from Denmark named Lonnie and Mia who also were originally met in Viña Del Mar and another cool girl named Maria from Germany. We stayed at the same hostel, La Kañas, and played a great deal of card games while for some reason listening to a lot of Swedish music. Our last day together was dedicated towards wandering around a neighboring sleepy city called Calama before we said our final goodbyes. They headed to Pan de Azucar and I darted for Arequipa in another nightbus. Hopefully we will meet again because they were some truly great people!

Before arriving in Arequipa I managed to arrange a free place to stay at what turned out to be a family owned hospedaje with the help of Couchsurfing.org. The family has been very welcoming and Barbara, the person with whom I organized the meeting, took me to Camana a very popular beach town that was booming with music-thumping nightlife. We also rode horses in a neighboring town, tried Recotto Relleno at a traditional Peruvian restaurant and explored some interesting sections of Arequipa. Thanks to the help Barbara and her family Arequipa has been a memorable experience for which I will forever be grateful.

More updates will be on the way soon and I hope everyone is having a great day! Take care and thank you for reading this blog :)

The Return Home

Today is Wednesday and currently I am at a pizzeria called "Amadeus" located within the heart of central Santiago, Chile. Due to the reversal of hemispheres Chile is enjoying the heat of a sun engulfed summer and today was no different. The echoes of Chilean families chatting and laughing fill the atmosphere of this open-aired eatery as I sip on a very refreshing beer. Out of complete coincidence the pizza I just ate was the best I have had since leaving the United States but it still is nothing like home. Maybe this is some sort of sign because today marks the final day of traveling "South" and as of tomorrow morning-ish (or maybe afternoon-ish) the remainder of this journey will never go this direction again.

Tomorrow I will visit La Serena which is a Chilean Pisco hub and about seven hours "North" of Santiago. The word "North" sounds unfamiliar and after nearly six months of traveling "South" it feels like a forgotten book that was tucked away under a relative's dusty dresser. For a great deal of time the concept of heading closer to home felt like an unwanted dentist appointment but right now it feels really nice to know that within a matter of weeks a reunion among family and friends is surely going to take place.

Leaving the city of Santiago will possibly be the most bittersweet experience I've had in recent memory because it is the first destination in this journey that for certain won't be revisited in a great deal of time, perhaps for the rest of my life. Before today I knew I would be coming back to every place at least once because it would be required to do so in order to leave from Colombia back to the USA. The thought of possibly never coming back to Santiago makes me feel a little heartbroken inside. It's a reminder that life is short, something that should be cherished, and also a reason to live it as the best human being you can strive to become.

Knowing that "home" is now getting closer it's hard not to reflect on how events have unfolded and if things should have been planned differently. It's highly probable that amazing experiences were unknowingly omitted and potential friendships never had a chance to blossom but this is why life is funny and within it people need to make choices. Sitting in this pizzeria I know that there have been no regrets and for that I can skip on the bill (just kidding) a happy man. Every single second that has been lived since six months ago and each person who I have had the honor of being contact with will forever leave me smiling and truly thankful. The desire to travel, get lost, then find my way back is something that I've come to accept as a part of who I am. In my heart South America will be re-explored so anything that was missed this time around is just another reason to come back :)

Originally I was going to head "East" to Mendoza in Argentina but minutes before purchasing a bus ticket at the Santiago terminal the travel clerk informed me that as of the end of this past year all American travelers heading to Argentina are required to pay a $160 reciprocity fee. Considering that time is severely limited and funding has dwindled over the course of wandering I decided to pass on entering the country and save it for the next adventure. A slightly bitter aura was in the air after exiting the bus station but that is life sometimes.

The past three days have been spent exploring Santiago with a friend named Caro who is from the city and it was a truly great experience. She is very close with a mutual friend from Lima named Melody and we hiked around various parts of the massive city. Today we tried Pastel De Choclo and yesterday we took a free walking tour with a group of very cool Australians. Afterwards we drank "Terrimotos" within a bodega called "Pajarito" which was the very place where the ice-cream and wine combined beverage was invented. I was very fortunate to have met her and to have seen Santiago through the guidance of a local. Hopefully the favor can be payed forward to future travelers when I return to the Bay Area in 6 weeks (April 1st).

More updates will be on the way but until then I hope everyone who reads this is having a nice day. Thank you for being my friend and sorry for the emotional post but take good care!

Valparaiso and the City of Sisters

Today is Monday and currently I am getting ready to pack my bags and venture back to Santiago, Chile to visit a friend of a friend and to hammer out plans for the next destination. I spent last night at a backpackers called The Kalagen Hostel which is a semi posh place to stay and is situated right in the heart of the Chilean vacation city Viña Del Mar. Since last Tuesday I have been hopping back and forth between here and the less touristy Valparaiso which is located a short bus ride south.

Both locations are equally beautiful but for completely opposite reasons. Viña Del Mar is a major beach resort city which brags limitless fine sand beaches, towering hotels, vibrantly clean parks, and stylishly expensive restaurants that charge premiums due to their favorable location. Valparaiso is an attractive place to visit thanks to its consistantly evident edginess that it brings to travelers as they have access to creatively decorated cafes, oddly constructed side streets, diverse rustic colors, and a fantastic selection of graffiti art that layers a large portion of the buildings. Valpo is a large port city that also is known for its crime and ability to convert seemingly calm streets into places of darkness. During the course of two days a car stereo thief was chased through a dim lit street and a deceased corpse surrounded by police investigators was seen along a commonly frequented avenue. It was the first time being a witness to reasons why residents of South America stress the importance of caution to travelers.

The biggest reason for visiting these two locations was because Viña Del Mar and Sausalito, my hometown, are sister cities and share an international relationship of some sort. I really wanted to learn how this bond came about and if there was some interesting information about what the two places have done to strengthen their ties. Unfortunately little official information has been discovered and the vast majority of locals have no idea that an actual town named "Sausalito" exists. There is however a large park and stadium named after my hometown along a corner of Viña and a small stone plaque constructed in 2010 commemorate 50 years of international relations which started in 1960. Walking down the wide streets of Viña brings memories of Sausalito because both places have lush green hills, palm trees, waves of tourists, and panoramic views that are very peaceful. The only evident difference is that Viña is about 25 times bigger than Sausalito and thus provides a larger palate of activities for the people who are there. The sounds of soft ocean breaks and the whisper of breeze through resting palm trees make Viña a difficult place to leave.

Valparaiso was filled with a lot of exposure to previously undiscovered experiences. Besides the somber events described earlier the city is still a must-visit location and its densely covered with culture. A good friend name Sebastian lives there with his family and I was fortunate to receive an opportunity I stay in their house. We met each other three years ago in Wellington, NZ and it was great to see a face from an entirely different set of memories. Thanks to Sebastian I was able to explore nearly every corner of the city via foot, bus, taxi, and elevator car. His birthday was on Friday and we went to see a ska band in a massive disco called "Huevo" after grabbing beers with his friends in a hipster bar called "Pajarito". The bassist for the band was his friend and we got to hang out backstage after their show was finished to share some laughs with the other members who are all from Santiago. On Saturday we participated in a BBQ, known here as an "Asada", with a group of people who have been friends for over 20 years. The vast majority of time in Viña and Valpo was dedicated towards trying to understand the conversations of large groups of Chileans. On numerous occasions I had completely no idea what was being talked about and felt like I was doing a mental brain exercise. Chileans speak excessively fast, blend words together, and have a wide menu of slang. Po, Puta, and Huevon are only a few that I have picked up. Despite the language barrier at times the people of Chile are very fun and I am very thankful to Sebastian and his family for their warm hospitality.

More updates will be up soon and I hope everyone had a great weekend! Take care!

Chile via Dusty Trails

Today is Sunday and currently I am camped out on a sofa located within a hostel called The Aji (formerly known as Chillie) Backpackers. The reason for "camping" is because I am trying to hoard the lone television within the establishment in an attempt to watch the 49ers make Ray Lewis of the Baltimore Ravens look like a failed lamp salesman in the Superbowl which should start in about 40 minutes. Hopefully the game will end with a championship for San Francisco!

As of two days ago I have officially entered Chile after a very extended tour of the traveler friendly Peru. I was very close to maxing out my 90 day visa in a country that coasts excellent food, a deeply rooted culture, and a diverse crowd of very welcoming people. Chile was beginning to appear more like a mirage than an actual destination and to have finally arrived here feels refreshingly exciting.

After visiting Chiclayo in Northern Peru I stopped off for a second stint in Trujillo to visit friends and enjoy a Marinera international dance completion. The Marinera, not the delicious pasta sauce, is one of numerous traditional dances that can be found along the coasts of Peru. It was very interesting and after two days a very strenuous journey to Chile took flight...via bus. To enter the country one must first arrive in Tacna, which is the border city located in Peru. After a 30 hour bus trip through Lima and Nazca I spent two nights in Tacna and a friend showed me a great railroad museum and some of the beautiful squares that pepper the surprisingly laid back desert city.

On Friday Chilean soil was at last crossed but the celebration was short lived because immediately an additional bus was boarded in the dusty Arica with Santiago set as its destination. This was arguably the most time consuming and mind numbing ride of my life. In its entirety the arrival into Santiago, the capital of Chile, lasted 32 hours with very few stops for food or restrooms. The bus itself was spacious and well ventilated but the girl sitting next to me was sharing a seat with her very young son who couldn't have been more than 4 years old. After about 15 hours it was evident that the boy was hungry or tired and he decided to let the entire group of other passengers know this by proceeding to cry like a newborn Alpaca until we finally cruised into the Santiago terminal. To make matters worse the bus company only boasted a selection of three movies and opted to play them on repeat for the duration of the trip. After watching Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson throw the game winning touchdown pass in Disney's "The Gameplan" for the third time I strongly considered jumping out of the window in the middle of the Chilean desert.

Patience paid off because Santiago is a wonderful place to visit. The city is deceivingly large with modern architecture, litter free streets, magnificent urban wall art, wide selections of cafes, beautifully displayed monuments, and plenty of outdoor options for people to enjoy a relaxed afternoon. The only tradeoff with all of this is that prices for nearly everything are comparable to the United States but despite the cost hike this place is sure to provide visitors with a pleasant experience.

The hostel I'm staying in is located in the Providence District which is within walking distance to a wide variety of attractions. Today was filled with a long walk through the neighborhoods Bellavista, taking a tour through the former house of Chilean poet Pablo Neruda, and a great deal of decompressing after the strenuous previous two days.

The tentative plan for now is to stay in Santiago to recuperate for a few days then head west to the coast in order to see Viña Del Mar which is the sister city of my hometown. I hope everyone is doing well and thank you very much for taking your time to read this blog! You look delightful ;)

Family Matters

Today is Thursday and currently I am taking in some afternoon air at the house of my friend Kristie which is located in Chiclayo, Peru. This is the place of residence for her family which also consists of her parents, sister, and grandmother. I arrived here last Friday and plan on absorbing the atmose of Chiclayo until this forthcoming weekend.

The previous blog post was written in Trujillo and three days were spent within its charming colonial style boundaries. The beauty of Trujillo was a complete surprise and I arrived to the city bus terminal very early in the morning without any accommodation reserved. Only a few minutes of research about this place was undertaken beforehand and by complete luck a local taxi at the bus station recommended a hostel that ended up being one of my all time favorites of this trip. El Mochilero is a cheap, centrally located gem of a place to stay which offers great coffee and a heavily chilled out environment. This discovery was the first of many great experiences in Trujillo and for that I am truly thankful. The Plaza De Armas is stunningly clean, bright, and full of life. At night break dancers form circles and casual pedestrians roll through wide avenues lit in dim yellow hues. The food is great and there is access to some wonderful ruins such as the Chan Chan and Huaca Del Luna y Sol. Only fifteen minutes away is Huanchaco, a laid back beach town that provides seagoers with spenty of sun, fine sand, and relaxing ocean swells. After doing some exploring I was able to partake in a few language exchanges with some really cool locals. In the end this place ended up being one of my favorite cities to explore in Peru.

After the three day detour I hopped a four hour bus ride last friday to Chiclayo to visit my friend Kristie and her family. The ride to this destination was part of a promise I made two months ago and the trip up the coast went without problems. Chiclayo is a coastal city in Northern Peru and is situated between Trujillo and the beach haven of Piura. After spending exactly a week here a few striking characteristics have definitely set this place apart from anywhere else I have been in this trip. Currently the city, which is considerably hot, dry, dusty, and surprisingly loud, is under massive road reconstruction and it seems that for every person walking down the sidewalk there is at least one motorcycle taxi honking for their attention. A sea of vehicles swarm its narrow streets like ants attacking candy and moving from place to place at times has felt like a game of Frogger. It's the first time in a great while where the traffic congestion and frequently looming hum of passing vehicles has left me quite uncomfortable at times. Also despite it's normal appearance I have been warned multiple times that this place is a little dangerous and that constant caution is recommended. These descriptions seem like major reasons not to see this place but despite some of its tradeoffs Chiclayo offers the best food, access to some of the most culturally rich traditions, and houses some of the kindest people that I have ever encountered. The Ceviche, Arroz con Pato (duck), Cabrito (baby goat), Chaufa (Chinese infusions), and various Asados which can be found on nearly every street corner make this place a gastronomic Mecca. My friend Kristie has been a wonderful host and has done her best to expose me to the various cultural offerings of her city and for that I am truly fortunate and thankful.

In addition to food Chiclayo is in very close proximity to numerous pre Inka museums, ruins, and various historical sites. On Saturday we took a collectivo taxi to Lambayeque, a neighboring town, which supposedly was the first place officially liberated from the Spanish empire in Peru. On Sunday Kristie's sister and I went to El Museo Tumbas Reales De Sipan which houses a collection of artifacts taken from a Moche (one of the first Peruvian civilizations dating back thousands of years) temple. Also time has been shared around Pimental Beach, El Museo de Sican, and seeing inverted pyramids at Tucume. A great deal of time has been spent with the family of Kristie who all have been very welcoming and have shed a great deal of light on Peruvian home life, food culture, and family dynamics. Overall this experience in Chiclayo has been extremely rewarding and it is an absolute goal to return here in the future and to hopefully be as hospitable to guests in my future home as her family has been with me.

I apologize for the very wordy blog update but a lot of events have taken place since last week. On Sunday morning I will loop back south to Trujillo to commence a series of substantially lengthy bus rides to Chile and finally Argentina (and maybe Bolivia or maybe just buy a sandwich). More updates will be on the way soon and thank you for reading this blog! Have a great day and take care.

Northbound Recovery

Today is Tuesday and currently I am taking in some fresh air at a backpackers called El Mochilero located in Trujillo, a coastal city that sits about ten hours north of the Peruvian capital of Lima. I arrived here a little over an hour ago via a very spacious Oltura bus that left from Lima. The bus was booked extremely last minute and Jorge who worked at my previous hostel will be indebted forever thanks to his help. The plan is stay to here for a few days to see a few ruins such as the Chan Chan then spend some time on the beach in Huanchaco which is a small surfing village that borders the city about twenty minutes away.

A few changes have been made to the trip itinerary since the last blog post and the culprit behind it was a pretty bad case of the flu that sprang up in Puno. Seeing either the northern deserts of Chile or the other side of Lake Titicaca in Bolivia were the two original options outside of Puno but after a few days of heavy recuperation watching dramatic Spanish soap operas time has become severely limited. On January 18th, three days from now, I'll be staying with the family of my friend in Chiclayo and therefore had to head fairly quickly north through Peru.

After recovering in Puno I hopped a bus last Friday to Arequipa and instead of stopping then proceeded to hop another bus directly to Lima. The trip was about 22 hours and during this time the altitude dropped from 12500 feet down to 500 feet. This rapid change was a little too sudden and upon arrival in Lima there was heavy pressure in my head and absolutely no hearing from my left ear for two days.

Despite being half deaf and semi sick the time in Lima was very nice. Saturday night consisted of watching the 49ers win a playoff game at The Corner Bar with a 56 year old Californian named Ken and Sunday was filled with renting a bicycle for a ride through The Miraflores District then seeing a light show at Parque De La Reserva Circuito Magico De Agua. This basically is a really big water park that consists of a series of really big fountains, a must see if you are in Lima! Thankfully yesterday the left side of my head became adjusted to the change of climate then a friend named Melody from Couch Surfing and I met to do a language exchange and walk around the city. Overall Lima was a great experience and now I'll be in the North coast for the rest of the month.

I hope everyone is doing really well and more updates are soon to follow! Take care.

Puno'd

Today is Wednesday and currently I am watching "The Fresh Prince of Bel Air" in Spanish at the Puma Backpackers located in northern Puno. I arrived here three days ago after spending a little over five weeks in Cusco and after saying farewell to some really great people. The hostel is essentially a house converted into an extended living accommodation and the owners, Enrique and Frita, have been really hospitable.

Puno is a very relaxed town filled with pizzerias, motorcycle taxis, and generally warm people, that sits along Lake Titicaca and is very close to the Bolivian border. Before arriving here I was playing with the options of hopping into Bolivia to see La Paz for a few days or trekking deep south into Chile to see San Pedro de Atacama. Both ideas have been officially left on the back burner because I have contracted the Flu and have been forced to stay here in Puno until things get better. The worst of it has definitely passed and thanks to whatsapp my Mom helped me find proper medication. Being stuck here isn't too bad because the hostel is completely vacant minus me which is perfect for recovering and there is a really nice TV so life is good!

Hopefully tomorrow things will be even better and now the plan is to go to southern Peru to Tacna because there are two Couch Surfing contacts there, head up along the coast to Lima for the weekend, maybe stop for a day in Trujillo, then be in Chiclayo by the 18th of January. There are some really good friends in Chiclayo who made arrangements for me to visit! This is all for now and a dubbed Will Smith is still pretty funny. Take care and I hope everyone is having a great day.

The Journey Continues

Today is Sunday and currently I am relaxing at a cafe called Kushka...Fe located alongside one of the corners of Cusco that is most frequented by travelers. Despite being a little pricy this Lima, owned eatery boasts one of the best atmospheres in the city. It has been quite some time since updating this travel blog and once again I am very sorry, the past few weeks have been consumed with hostel work and living like a semi Peruvian citizen. After working full-time as a quasi receptionist in a Spanish speaking hostel and getting to know one of the most beautiful cities in South America, a chapter in the trip is about to be completed. Within twenty-four hours the stable environment of living in one location for an extended period of time will become a memory and the backpack that has been placed in storage will regain familiarity like a once forgotten friend.

Tomorrow morning I will hop on a bus to Puno which is a laid-back town located on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca. After spending a day or so around the world's tallest lake, the trail will be sporadic and accommodation will be based on which people on Couch Surfing have available space. The tentative goal is to cross into Chile after a night in border city of Tacna, spend some time in the dessert of Atacama at Valle Del Luna then either dip south towards Santiago or come back up to Peru. During the end of January I made arrangements I visit some close friends in Chiclayo which is a beach city located in the very far north of Peru. To put it shortly there are is a two or three week gap of time between now and Chiclayo which gives me some flexibly to see some new places but not enough time to wander too far away. As soon as more wrinkles become ironed out this blog will be the first to know!

Today is an emotional day in the former Inka city because it is difficult saying goodbye to familiarity, to some very amazing people, and to embrace the unknown. Describing the past few weeks in Cusco is a very hard task because the experience here has been arguably the greatest in my life. The countless travelers and fascinating locals that I have crossed paths with during my tenure as a staff member at Pirwa Colonial Backpackers is one of the best gifts that life in the colonial city has brought. Hundreds of people from all walks of life, each with there own interesting story and characteristics, has shed light on how beautiful this world is and how lucky I have been to be on this journey. Leaving the city will be very bittersweet because in my heart it is undoubtably time to ramble, to get lost, to struggle, and to experience new things. On the contrary there are countless memories soaked into this place's foundation, from the rainy dim lit side streets to the creaky wooden dance floors that are easier to find than a proper store to buy face wash.

Every individual memory of Cusco brings a tear to my eye and lights a fire inside my soul. I unfortunately can't even begin to describe what has happened the last few weeks because writing them down doesn't give justice to how thankful I am to have experienced this city. More information about future plans will be posted soon but until then thank you to everyone who has been in Cusco since the day I arrived. We might have been here together for weeks, simply made eye contact on a bustling street corner, or we might have only shared a two minute conversation. What ever the situation you will forever be remembered and hold a very special place in my heart. Except Nick and Carlton, you guys are just a couple of jerks :) just kidding but seriously I want my dollar back.